Climbing Everest with iPad and iPhone Mar 21st 2012, 18:20 This spring en route to Mount Everest, Hilaree O'Neill, 39, a ski-mountaineer from Colorado who is part of the 2012 National Geographic expedition, will trek the same valleys and work up to Base Camp just as Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay did 59 years ago when the duo claimed the first ascent. But on the mountain, fortunately, O'Neill will not be using the antiquated gear—think woolen suits and wood-handled ice axes—that Hillary hauled. In this gallery, we take a look at the equipment Hillary and Norgay used in 1953 and the high-tech gear O'Neill will use to climb the world's tallest peak in 2012. —Stephen Regenold -
Gear for the Climb Photograph by Alfred Gregory, Royal Geographic Society In this photo, Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, the first people to reach Everest's summit, are seen near 27,300 feet. The 1953 expedition had climbers carrying loads approaching 44 pounds apiece. Today, ultralight gear cuts significant weight from a climber's load—often half the weight, or less, of Hillary's pack load. -
Backpack Photograph courtesy The North Face 1953: External frame packs were de rigueur in Hillary's time. But the military-issue aluminum frames were surprisingly light, weighing just a couple of pounds. 2012: Made with a high-tech fabric used in automobile airbags, the light and tough Prophet 52 pack from The North Face (above) will hold O'Neill's gear. Ice axe attachment loops, an external crampon pocket, and a generally streamlined alpine design make the Prophet good for the trek. -
Helmet Photograph courtesy Black Diamond Equipment 1953: None 2012: The Black Diamond Half Dome Helmet (above) weighs just 345 grams (less than a pound), but it provides full protection with an ABS shell and polystyrene foam inside. -
Ice Axe Photograph courtesy Black Diamond Equipment 1953: Made by Claudius Simond in Chamonix, France, Hillary's ice axe was constructed of forged steel with a European ash wood handle. 2012: Weighing just 12 ounces, the Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe (above) has a hollow aluminum shaft and a stainless steel head. It measures 20 inches in hand—about a foot shorter than Hillary's. -
Eyewear Photograph courtesy Smith Optics 1953: Aviator-style goggles with darkened glass lenses protected Hillary and Tenzing from UV rays and snow blindness. A head strap and lens gaskets kept the goggles tight on the face. 2012: Made for the bright, white environment of high peaks, Smith Optics' I/O Interchangeable Polarized Goggles (above) will shield O'Neill from the unforgiving sun. A quick-release system will let her swap out lenses as light conditions change. A "rim-less" design increases field of vision, while anti-fog coatings and vents will help keep her vision clear. -
Boots Photograph courtesy SCARPA 1953: Hillary's expedition used at least two types of boots, including a custom high-altitude model made by The British Boot, Shoe & Allied Trade Research Association of Kettering, England. They were lightweight for their day and had insulating material sandwiched inside a waterproof "envelope" to preserve insulation loft. 2012: Tough, breathable Cordura outers, heat-reflective aluminum, closed-cell foam insulation, and a waterproof zipper make Scarpa's Phantom 8000 boots (above) popular on high peaks. They are light, totally weatherproof, and have a custom fit. The double-boot system will allow O'Neill to remove the bulky outers after each day's ascent to chill out in camp wearing just the lightweight inner booties. -
Crampons Photograph courtesy Black Diamond Equipment 1953: Hefty steel crampons allowed Hillary and team to grip solidly on ice and snow. 2012: Made of stainless steel and weighing about a pound each, Black Diamond's Sabretooth crampons (above) provide solid footing with minimal weight. Horizontal front points will allow O'Neill to kick in and ascend vertical ice. -
Tech on the Mountain Photograph by Alfred Gregory, Royal Geographic Society In Hillary's day, radio communication technology was widely available though heavy and not easy to use in the high alpine. In this photo, Hillary (at right) listens as teammate George Lowe sends a communiqué via the bulky wireless. Modern expeditions use tiny handheld radios and cell phones—and even make phone calls and send text messages from the summit. -
Trip Journal Photograph courtesy Apple 1953: Lined paper notebooks and a pencil or pen were Hillary's data recording tools. 2012: Ensconced in a protective case, an Apple iPad (above) will give O'Neill a journaling device that also stores music, movies, and e-books. The iPad's solid-state data storage drive makes it usable at altitudes where spinning hard disk drives (common in laptops) have been known to fail. -
Camera Photograph courtesy Canon 1953: The famous shot of Norgay on the summit? That was taken with Hillary's Kodak Retina, a camera that used 35mm film and had a rangefinder body type. 2012: Pixels, not film, will record the action on O'Neill's climb. She will keep a Canon PowerShot S95 camera (which is an older model, the current S100 is shown above) on her body, pulling out the 10-megapixel point-and-shoot (with HD video, too) to capture scenes and, hopefully, a summit shot on top of the world. -
Two-Way Communication Photograph courtesy Apple 1953: "Wireless" walkie-talkies let the British expedition stay in contact camp-to-camp on the mountain. The downside: They weighed five pounds apiece and used dry-cell batteries that had to be kept warm under a vest. 2012: Cell service, for better or worse, is now available throughout the Khumbu region and on Everest's summit. O'Neill will bring an Apple iPhone 4S (above) to stay in touch. -
Climbing Apparel Photograph by Alfred Gregory, Royal Geographic Society Hillary's team members return to Camp IV after the ascent. Hillary and Norgay are still roped together. The baggy, cotton-blend clothing of the era has been replaced today by high-tech material and streamlined down climbing suits. -
Mountaineering Suit Photograph courtesy The North Face 1953: A thin, windproof, military-derivative "cotton wrap, nylon weft" suit was Hillary's defense against Everest's fierce gales. 2012: Gore Windstopper shell fabric, airy 800-fill goose down, an internal down collar, an articulating "snorkel hood," and a dozen other features make The North Face's Himalayan Suit (above) a common outfit on the world's tallest peaks. The suit provides warmth and protection, though it's designed for active climbing with cuts that do not inhibit movement going up past the clouds. -
Mid-Layer Photograph courtesy 2XU 1953: A woolen "jumper suit" provided an insulating layer. It was made of Shetland wool by T.M. Adie and Sons of Voe, Scotland. The firm provided custom-made clothing for the expedition. 2012: Compression tights from 2XU (above) will provide more support than warmth. But with elastic muscle-wrapping straps embedded on the tights, O'Neill is counting on a performance boost via support and better circulation. -
Hat Photograph courtesy The North Face 1953: For parts of the climb, Hillary wore a hand-knit "sun helmet" sewn by his sister. 2012: The wide brim of The North Face's Solar Armor Hat (above) will shade O'Neill in Everest's high-altitude sunlight. Mesh vents and a light nylon fabric promote breathability. -
Base Layers Photograph courtesy The North Face 1953: Hillary wore "long underwear" made by Duofold. The synthetic top and bottom, which wicked sweat better than natural fibers, were a revolution at a time when cotton or coarse wool were the order of the day. 2012: O'Neill is wearing base layers of a new fabric called FlashDry (above), introduced this year by The North Face. FlashDry is a technology that embeds microporous particles touted to dissipate moisture (that is, sweat) better than wool or traditional polypro. The FlashDry particles increase the surface area that moisture sits on to allow it to spread out and evaporate quicker. -
Face/Neck Gaiter Photograph courtesy Buff Canada 1953: Expedition members wore wool scarves and other pieces made for them by a Scottish company, T.M. Adie and Sons of Voe, which used a fine Shetland wool blend. Gear was custom-made for the climbers because it was not available on the shelf. 2012: O'Neill will sport the Original Buff, a tube-hat piece made of synthetic fabric (above). Thin and seamless, a buff can fit under a hat, helmet, and hood as a part of a system to keep out the cold. -
Everest Campsite Photograph by George Band, Royal Geographic Society Tenzing Norgay, left, and Edmund Hillary drink a celebratory cup of tea at Camp IV, surrounded by the relative comforts of a high-altitude campsite after their successful ascent. A tent, likely a cotton-nylon weave, is seen in the background. Today, climbers might down a recovery drink to replenish electrolytes or protein stores, though hot tea is still popular with climbers and Sherpas alike. They rest in their ultralight tents and sleeping bags, munching on high calorie snacks. -
Tent Photograph courtesy The North Face 1953: Hillary and crew had high-mountain tents with piano-wire stiffeners on the doors and detachable "nylon inners" for extra warmth. At the time, many tents were made of a canvas-like material with a nylon inner tent. 2012: The North Face calls its VE 25 tent (above) a "three-person yurt for lodging in severe conditions." A stout rip-stop canopy, Kevlar guylines, and a polyurethane port window cold-crack tested to minus 60°F are among the features that help it stand up to Himalayan winds. -
Sleeping Bag Photograph courtesy The North Face 1953: It may have weighed a hefty nine pounds, but a nylon-shell sleeping bag with down insulation helped keep Hillary and his team alive on Everest's long, cold nights. 2012: It weighs about a third of Hillary's bag, but The North Face Inferno (above) provides a warmth rating to minus 20°F. Superlight 850-fill goose down and a waterproof Pertex shell make it suitable for Everest's unforgiving flank. -
Food Photograph courtesy Clif Bar 1953: Hillary and Norgay fueled up on tinned fish, lemonade, chicken noodle soup, apricots, and tea. 2012: O'Neill will carry Clif Shots (above), parmesan cheese, hard salami, and York Peppermint Patties in her pack.
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